Mathis Guertin Reconstructs Masculinity in The After

Montréal designer Mathis Guertin combines brutalist architecture, precise tailoring and queer identity in a collection exploring vulnerability, power and reconstruction.

Founded in Montréal, Mathis Guertin is a menswear label shaped by brutalist architecture, minimalism and queer identity.

Precise tailoring and architectural silhouettes are used to challenge conventional ideas of menswear and examine the relationship between vulnerability and strength. A restrained palette of black and silver reinforces the label’s structural design language, while slow-fashion principles place emphasis on longevity, quality and intention rather than trend.

For SS27, The After begins in the period following emotional collapse.

Grief settles into structure and vulnerability gives way to intention. Clothing becomes armour, while sexuality is reclaimed as an expression of power rather than validation.

Leather, wool, canvas and satin create a material vocabulary of resilience, restraint and controlled sensuality. Precise construction is interrupted by deliberate exposure, creating tension between protection and vulnerability.

The collection ultimately reconsiders confidence itself.

Rather than something performed for others, The After imagines it as something reconstructed — quieter, more deliberate and no longer dependent on permission.

Mathis Guertin presents The After at 5.30pm on Sunday 20 September at Devonshire Square, London.